One Day (and Gluten-Free) in Cuernavaca, Mexico Guide
At 5,000 ft elevation, Cuernavaca, the capital of the Mexican state of Morelos, is a short 1.5 hours drive south from Mexico City. It has a historic colonial city center, which was once home to the (in)famous Spanish conqueror, Hernan Cortes. Cuernavaca is the place Mexican nationals go for respite to escape from the constant hustle and bustle of Mexico City. Many even retire or keep vacation homes in Cuernavaca. Although the entire state of Morelos was greatly affected by September 2017’s earthquake, the citizens of this quaint city have maintained their optimism through community and resilience.
While on contract in Cuernavaca for humanitarian work, I got a feel for the lay of the land. I found it to be pretty similar to Orange County, California, or any other large, primarily suburban town. It’s calmer, quieter, with lots of parking spaces and a renowned university. But just within, and outside of suburbia, lies famous colonial buildings, Aztec ruins, as well as the stunning Tepozteco Mountains that cradle the city. Here are my recommendations when visiting the area for a day, or two, or more!
A quick tip: Give yourself at least a couple of days to chill and acclimate to the altitude before climbing any ruins, or mountains. You’ll thank me later.
COFFEE
Starbucks Portal (Domingo Diez) D10
Like in the states, I spent many hours working at this local Sbux location. It’s like any other Starbucks, except better, because since it’s in Mexico, they have Pan de Queso (gluten-free)! Though not recommended if you have a lactose intolerance… I know I paid for it later. If you are grabbing your café con dulce to-go, there is also a movie theatre inside of the connected shopping center.
Cafe Punto de Cielo
Located in the historical square, this hip cafe has plenty of options for coffee loves and alternative milk choices to choose from.
Starbucks - Cuernavaca Centro
I know, I know. But remember, suburban cities need at least one Starbucks per square mile. I enjoyed this location, which has a patio with an amazing view of the historical downtown.
BREAKFAST/LUNCH
Cafe La Fauna (La Fauna Cafe)
I accidentally discovered this cute little cafe while roaming around the city center on one of my days off. I noticed that it attracts young, hip, university students, and hosts various events. There was a book of poetry on every table, and the cook was very accomodating to my diet, making me delicious gluten and dairy-free options. They also offer vegan options too!
Restaurante Las Amates
Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, this bountiful buffet is great. Surprisingly, they had tons of gluten-free options, and the kitchen staff was quite accommodating.
LUNCH/DINNER
La Maga Cafe
The reason I found out about this place is because we attended a Feminist Night on International Women’s Day #thefutureisfemale. Our night was full of watching/listening to talented women, and sipping naranjadas (orange juice and soda water). They have a gluten-friendly menu and buffet, and make sure to check out their schedule since they host awesome events all of the time. They are also open for lunch if you already have evening plans.
Greenside Salads
Think of a chipotle, but for salads and less corporate. Fairly priced, considering they use all organic produce. This was my go-to spot for lunch, especially on warm days. Their daily smoothies are amazing!!!
El Sibarita Restaurant at Posado de Tepozteco (Tepoztlán)
Located at the Pasado de Tepozteco hotel, a colleague took us here for dinner, and it was magical with a grand vista of Tepoztlan as we ate our candlelit dinner. The interior has a cozy, colonial rustic design. The kitchen was aware of my dietary restrictions, and were accommodating. They serve many traditional Mexican dishes, as well as some international fare. They are also open for breakfast and lunch.
THINGS TO DO
Plaza de Armas - Cuernavaca Historical Center
At the heart of Cuernavaca, the history center seems to always have something going on. It’s bustling with vendors, entertainers, and often hosts festivals. We were lucky that we happened to be doing work at the Starbucks in the square nearby, and stumbled upon a music festival. That’s where I was introduced to my new favorite Chilean band, Miss Garrison.
Museo Regional Cuauhnáhuac (Palacio de Cortes)
Built in 1526, Palacio de Cortés is renowned for once being Hernan Cortes’ home, and for being one of the oldest conserved colonial-era civil structures in the Americas. It serves as a cultural center and museum, which includes a collection of historical, archaeological, palaeontological and artistic goods from the state of Morelos.
La Piramide de Tepozteco (Pyramid of Tepozteco)
Just an hour away by car, or a couple of hours if you go by bus, is the magical city of Tepoztlan. Let me tell you up front, it was not an easy hike. The altitude and my dysautonomia (POTS) equally challenged me, and I had take a LOT of breaks. Don’t think I could’ve done it without my salt pills or colleagues rooting me on the whole way up. It can seem like it’s never ending, until you finally reach the top. And it’s completely worth it.
